Ireland day 0744. Thursday 12 October 2023- Beara day 2 *

Ireland day 0744. Thursday 12 October 2023- Beara day 2

Today’s summary	Drove over to Glengarriff and took the ferry for a short sail across to Garinish Island. Enjoyed looking round the elaborate Italianate garden (courtesy, now, of OPW) then returned to the mainland to do a bit of shopping in Glengarriff on the way back to Eyeries
Today’s weather	Dull and overcast all day, with low cloud and some drizzle. Light easterly wind. Appx 14C

Today’s overview location (The blue mark shows the location of our route)		Close-up location (The orange line shows where we walked) (Click button below to download GPX of today’s walk as recorded, or see interactive map at bottom with elevations corrected): Garinish Island

Commentary

(Summary blog only. Last full blog was Day 0368).

Today dawned dry but very dull and the threat of rain or drizzle didn’t seem very far off. So rather than attempting anything too epic, we thought we would drive over to Glengarriff, and take the ferry across to nearby Garinish Island to take a look at the Italianate Gardens.

We aren’t early starters, so by the time we had enjoyed breakfast, made packed lunches, and driven over the mountain pass, it was late morning when we arrived at the ferry terminal. We just missed the Harbour Queen II as she set off on the short voyage across the Blue Pond to the Island, but we didn’t have to wait long before she reappeared and we were able to set off. The sea was flat calm, much to everyone’s relief, so we serenely glided across the water, taking in a view of the seals basking on the rocks along the way.

The gardens are a real curiosity, designed for the wealthy Belfast businessman John Bryce in around 1910 by architect Harold Peyto. The Peyto family lived there until 1953 when they were bequeathed to the nation. They are looked after by the OPW and so, as always, everything is done properly. But before we could have a good look round, we decided it was lunch time so we stopped to have our sandwiches in the Casito – a beautiful Italian style villa, made of glowing Bath limestone, overlooking the old swimming pool.

There are supposed to be views up to the Caha mountains, but they were snugly wrapped up in blankets of cloud today, so we didn’t see anything. But the most striking feature of the garden was the near-absolute silence and the mild Gulf Stream ambience. It was a real serene oasis and we enjoyed it thoroughly.

Once we’d had a good look round – including clambering up the Martello Tower (built in 1805, around the same time as those on the east coast, and also a defence against a Napoleonic attack then never came) – we found time to drop into the café and enjoy a cup of tea (and some cake, I am embarrassed to admit).

The final boat of the day turned up at 4:30 and we were soon back in Glengarriff, accompanied by a coach load of Dutch tourists. But rather than heading straight back to Eyeries, we discovered rather nice nature trail running west along the coast, and into the village centre. We dropped into the local supermarket and picked up a few provisions before finally returning to the cars for the 45 minute drive back.

Anyway, now we’re back and have just enjoyed a rather nice beef casserole, and Val has fired up the DVD player. Must go now, as Quantum of Solace beckons.

Today’s photos (click to enlarge)


Seals basking in the murk	The Casito – a beautiful summer house made of warm Bath limestone

Val demonstrating the curiously mobile seat we found lurking in the Casito	Examining the view from the top of the Martello

The cottage where the Bryce family lived. It was burned down in the War of Independence, but subsequently rebuilt	Iconic street scene in Glengarriff

The view from the Casito. I would like to live in a spot just like this, only a bit warmer.