Ireland day 1131. Saturday 02 November 2024- To San Sebastian

Today’s summary	Took a taxi to the start of our walk at Las Casetas and then ascended to the top of the adjoining hill. Then had a brilliant walk down the ridge to San Sebastian and the Parador where we are staying for three nights. Stunning views as far as Gran Canaria and a wonderful lofty walk with lots of (manageable) exposure. We were at the Parador by 3:30 which gave plenty of time for a cup of tea, beers and a swim in the pool before dinner
Today’s weather	Warm and dry but with a lot of high cloud. Light southerly wind. Appx 21c

Today’s overview location (The grey mark shows the location of our route)		Close-up location (The orange line shows where we walked) (Click button below to download GPX of today’s walk as recorded, or see interactive map at bottom with elevations corrected): To San Sebastian

Commentary

There was a time when I would have thought that having your bags carried for you to your next destination when on a long distance hike – or even worse getting a taxi part of the way there – was the most inexcusable form of laziness. Well we did both of those things today and I didn’t feel the slightest tinge of guilt. Actually, I have to say, I just felt a sense of relief and gratitude that I could do these things at all, as so many people I know at the moment cannot.

Anyway, reflections aside, we had breakfast at the Casa Rural at 8:30 and Maximo Rodriguez, the monosyllabic taxi driver, turned up promptly at 9:30 to take us to Las Casetas (at least that’s what I think it was called, though the place had no name on my map) and our luggage onward to the Parador in San Sebastian, where we are staying.

As soon as we had emerged from the tunnels on the GM-1 road, Maximo dropped us off somewhat unceremoniously at the roadside, and we were left rather in the middle of nowhere with just our maps, GPXs and a lonely signpost to show us the way.

So we followed our directions and set off directly up the hill, following a good zig-zag path to the top of the ridge. Once we were up, the views were, of course, stupendous though I think we have become a bit punch drunk on the clarity lately. So the incredible vista of Tenerife and El Teide spanning the western horizon no longer had the impact it would if we were seeing it for the first time.

This time, though, we could actually see beyond Tenerife and on to the island of Gran Canaria, some 150km away. I have marked it with a red arrow in the banner image at the top of the blog. Later in the day, the receptionist in the Parador told us that it was a rarity to have such exceptionally clear weather, and even the locals were somewhat surprised by the views.

The rest of our walk to San Sebastian essentially followed the line of the ridge, contouring along first the southern, and then the northern, flank. It was quite easy going though a couple of stretches might have been described as “vertiginous”, if you were that way inclined. Strangely, our guidebook let these sections go unremarked, though they did feel more exposed than the parts which had invoked such concern in the text on earlier days in our walk.

We had an early picnic lunch midway along the ridge, luxuriating in the warmth and lack of wind or rain (a rarity for lunch stops on hikes for those of us living in Ireland!). Then we pressed on and headed straight for San Sebastian, which quickly came into view, and the Parador which lies on top of a headland overlooking the town.

We made it to the Parador for 3:30pm and were swiftly checked in by the engaging receptionist who indulged my feeble efforts to speak to her in Spanish. The Parador feels very nice – clean, airy, nicely laid out and fairly quiet. Our rooms have views right over the harbour and we spent the late afternoon enjoying some beers and cups of tea on our terrace, watching the comings and goings of the Armas and Fred Olsen ferries. We also managed to fit in a quick dip in the swimming pool, which was beautiful but cold. Val managed 20 lengths but I wimpishly dropped out after just two and headed for the hot showers.

Time to sign off now and get ready for dinner. We’re eating in the Parador tonight, so I need to look at least reasonably presentable – and after six days walking, that could take some time!

Today’s photos (click to enlarge)


Setting out this morning. The taxi dropped us somewhat unceremoniously at the roadside and and we were left to our own devices	At the top of the sharp climb up to the ridge. the first example of Canarian pine forest we have come across so far

Part of the exposed walk, contouring round the side of the ridge	*Patented headgear on display again, with El Teide* in the background**

Arriving at tonight’s accommodation. It’s lovely	Our room for the previous two nights – in a turret at the top of the Casa Rural de los Helechos in Agulo

The main courtyard of the Parador. A bit sunnier and warmer on this (south) aside of the island